1. real elevation maps for all countries, or continents.
If compare the average mountains peaks height (2-3km up to 4 km.)
and the land distances (400-600km. up to 1000 km.) its appear that the real terrain is very flat. I always new that earth is flat. 😆
So if we use real elevation data for large areas, the height must be scaled. The result scalling will be unrealistic, but it is good for scorched and fight. Anyway no one wants to play on flat areas.
2. Idea for other maps:
* some nice small geographics regions – peninsulas ,caves, towns etc.
* real battlefield places. -medieval, modern. Many times they happened on verry interesting terrain.
in that case of small areas the SRTM3 dataset with its precission of 90m. is verry good.
3. the gray(or collor) maps that most programs produce are useless for scorched. they are topographics views with hillshading and pseudo colors.
what is really need is a verry simple tool for exporting real elevation datasets. something like that: set the Longitude/Latitude and its produce square BMP(full scale 16bit gray) at given point. later this file can be edited with photoshop/gimp to fit into the scorched. Hope CBX will cook something.
That’s a nice attempt (edit: (picci’s screenshot)).
This is the problem the way I see it: a geographically accurate map of the world includes ocean depths. And beyond the continental borders, land height is nothing compared to ocean depth. In scorched world, you’d end up with really deep water and all the land would be shore/sand.
You could maybe get round it by excluding the oceans.
This is a geographically accurate map downloaded from the site I linked to before (heights exaggerated 30x):
You could slice it here:
And end up with this:
Which is probably about as close as you’d get, but still not ideal.
Maybe if you use one of the above methods as a starting point, forget about being geographically accurate and add the mountains and stuff yourself in paint shop or whatever.
If you want to convert 2D topographic maps, the next step on from a hue shift is a hue-range shift (most photo editors can do it). So you’d maybe go though the colour ranges (redish, blueish etc), shifting the hue so that when converted to greyscale, the higher areas are lighter.