This topic contains 108 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  Deathbal 4 years, 11 months ago.

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  • #7558

    Deathbal
    Participant

    I need a new graphics card anyway and was wondering if some of the more brighter minds in here can steer me in the right direction.

    I have an Intel i5 which fine. But it came with an integrated card and a 300 watt power supply which is not so fine LOL.

    Does anyone have any suggestions for an upgrade?

    #64039

    PeanutsRevenge
    Participant

    ATI 5770’s getting good reviews to its price/performance/power level
    Nvidia 550Ti might also do ya quite well, but don’t expect great performance from either, you’re limited with the PSU.

    On a side note, if it’s a cheap PSU (they usually are), then don’t expect it to actually supply 300W either, let alone on the 12v rail, which is the most important.

    Infact, can you have a gander (a look you colonial tit squeezer) @ what the total output is of the 12v rail (3.3 & 5v are barely used these days). As 300W means nothing if there’s only 120W available on the 12v.

    #64040

    Deathbal
    Participant

    You do realize I can buy another power supply, right? I had no intention of keeping the 300 watt one that I have.

    #64041

    naka
    Participant

    I always make choices by looking at these tables.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Nvidia_graphics_processing_units#GeForce_400_Series

    What u have to look for are numbers of shading units (Config core row). Current good card have more than 120 shading units (its a number like 144:24:24)

    And

    the total thermal power (TDP column) – less is good. Dont buy card that have more than 120-150 W.

    For video cards rating up to 150 W computers need power supply 500W.
    ( When the card is around 50-75W – PSU 400W should be enough. but 300W is too low for i5. )

    If u can find a model that is fanless is also very good. Such card of cards are often advertised as ‘silent’ , ‘silent pipe’ .. etc.

    #64042

    Raden
    Participant

    HI DB,

    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-oem-manufacturer,2913.html

    some good info in that article to help decide on the psu. A good 500W PSU is sufficient if you don’t have too many peripherals. I can only say don’t buy OCZ PSUs as I have had one die on me after 3 months usage. (PC Power & Cooling had a good reputation before, but since merging with OCZ, idk.)
    Enermax will make a good buy, I use Tagan and Silverstone in my rigs and no complaints there.

    ATI came out with a new card recently, good performance with reasonable price, the Radeon HD6790. An Nvidia card of equivalent performance would be the GTX 550 Ti model, though the HD6790 edges it a bit in terms of performance and price.

    @naka wrote:

    If u can find a model that is fanless is also very good. Such card of cards are often advertised as ‘silent’ , ‘silent pipe’ .. etc.

    Good as in silent but can be prone to overheating under heavy usage unless it has a very good heatsink and you need a casing with proper ventilation.

    #64043

    naka
    Participant

    @raden wrote:

    Good as in silent but can be prone to overheating under heavy usage unless it has a very good heatsink and you need a casing with proper ventilation.

    Ha.. Actually Fan-cards are more prone to overheating, because when the bearing starts to become worn it lower the RPM – it even may stop – and the user usually cant notice it.

    No such condition can happens to passive heatsink. These kind of passive coolers are very good and proper designed to sustain overheating , they are masive, and they have 2 holes on the case backplain where they suck cool air from the outside.

    About the PSU brand… I prefer Fortron.

    #64044

    Laptops Daddy
    Participant

    one more, for a couple of pennies.

    psus:
    take psu output ratings with a pinch of salt. a good £40 ‘400w’ will probably be better than than a £20 ‘800w’, regardless of what you throw at it. if youre doing research before you buy, keep in mind that review sites for things like graphics card power reqs often measure at the wall for the whole system and dont always allow for things like cross-loading.

    quality is more important than rated output.

    make sure you dont buy old stock if youre looking for a bargain. they changed the standards and requirements a little while ago. anything shown with dual or triple rail 12v, and probably anything that doesnt say 80 PLUS (meaning 80% efficiency), is probably old. that rail thing is important. it was a safety thing – there used to be limit of 20a per wire. way more than any graphics card uses, but youll probably still want a single rail design just in case. (youre going to regret asking : ). like peanut says, the 12v/5v balance has changed over the years. never use an old PSU geared up for heavy 5v in a modern system.

    look for the kind of thing someone who builds for others might buy. the fewer flashing blue lights and braided glow-in-the-dark cables, the better, if you want value.

    graphics cards:
    good advice above already. im out of touch when it comes to the latest stuff, but traditionally, memory bus width is the easiest way to tell a high-end card from mid-range. always buy high-end if you can. for the same price, a high-end card with less memory will nearly always perform better than a badged up mid-level with double bonus ram.

    from my experience, psu requirements are way lower than the manufacturers like to pretend. if NV say i need a nice shiny, NV endorsed ‘1000w’, with a pretty ‘for the gamers’ hologram on the side, i take that to mean ‘that, or a decent 350, if you know the password and secret loch ness monster handshake’

    (i need about 3 50)

    #64045

    Raden
    Participant

    @naka wrote:

    Ha.. Actually Fan-cards are more prone to overheating, because when the bearing starts to become worn it lower the RPM – it even may stop – and the user usually cant notice it.

    No such condition can happens to passive heatsink. These kind of passive coolers are very good and proper designed to sustain overheating , they are masive, and they have 2 holes on the case backplain where they suck cool air from the outside.

    About the PSU brand… I prefer Fortron.

    Hmm, I open up my gfx cards when they start making too much noise, a bit of wd40 for the bearings and some new cooling paste on the gpu. Prolongs the life a bit.
    My first discrete card was a fanless Sapphire model, maybe the heatsink wasn’t as elaborate as the current models we get nowadays, and also my pc casing at that time had inadequate fans (single 80mm). System temps were really high.
    But you can squeeze out a more sustained/stable performance from a gfx card which has a better cooling system (fan+ heatsink) compared to a fanless one (heatsink only) if they were both of same specs.

    @laptops Daddy wrote:

    psus:
    take psu output ratings with a pinch of salt. a good £40 ‘400w’ will probably be better than than a £20 ‘800w’,

    I think thats what happened to me in the case of my OCZ.

    #64046

    Laptops Daddy
    Participant

    real passive cooling is close to impossible in a closed chassis. you always need some kind of airflow.

    i gather the size of the sink doesnt make much difference, ’cause it’s not just about reduced efficiency – passive heatsinks dont work at all if theyre surrounded by other hot components and hot air. sounds obvious, but without a temperature difference, there’s no convection airflow.

    a bit of wd40 for the bearings

    occasional rustproofing, yearly service etc

    …find a model that is fanless is also very good.

    dont confuse low-end cards that the manufacturers dont think need a proper cooler, with that, though. a ‘real’ passive cooler on a proper graphics card will be the size of a house with heatpipes all over, and theyll still expect you to have chassis fans.

    other hot components and hot air

    i’d run 5 hard drives, high-end graphics and multicore cpus on a reasonably priced 400w psu all day long – often have. that’s a good link in raden’s post above. you can usually tell the kind of power supply thatll blow up in smoke by the way it looks. they’re usualy made from tin foil and weigh nothing.

    ps:
    the servers are empty, and quoting my own posts for an argument isnt a good sign for the forums. we need to fix that.

    #64047

    Deathbal
    Participant

    Scorched looks good on my new 27.5 inch monitor with all of the graphics pumped up!

    #64048

    QuadShotz
    Participant

    Heheh.

    I play just fine in 1024×768 windowed on a 22″ HD LCD running 1680×1050 rez…using an ‘old’ C2D E7200, 2Gb of ram, and an ASUS Silent 8400GS 256M. 😆

    Just bought a superior PSU tho to get things going….it ain’t new but it’ll kick ass anyway.

    Nothing beats PC Power & Cooling. Bought one of these for $35 shipped. 😀
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703001

    It’ll easily run better gear than I can afford.

    (I gotta decent Lite-On 300W PSU now, but to upgrade vid, gotta get more juice)

    Then, just need to max the RAM, get a new GPU, OC it to 3.5ghz….and kill moar stuff. 😈

    #64049

    PeanutsRevenge
    Participant

    Your C2D 7200 beats my C2D 5400, although I am clocked @ 3.3 atm I think, but got a crappy chip, won’t run over 3.4 stably or even boot over 3.7 🙁
    My 2 x GTS 250 1GB, 4GB RAM AND (even if you do say nothing’ll beat it) my 850W Gold PSU http://www.scan.co.uk/products/850w-psu-ocz-technology-zx-series-zx850w-un-modular-92-eff-80-plus-gold-sli-crossfire-eps-12v-quiet- beats yours tho 😀

    Just saying 😀

    #64050

    QuadShotz
    Participant

    Yeah ya got nicer stuff.

    Funny thing is, OCZ bought PCP&C…who pretty much invented the modern PSU. 😉
    That PSU is only costing me $35. But, it would easily run a Q2Q plus a 460 if I could afford em.

    Oh, BTW, my C2D cost me $50 on craigslist….FTW! 😉

    #64051

    PeanutsRevenge
    Participant

    @quadshotz wrote:

    Yeah ya got nicer stuff.

    Funny thing is, OCZ bought PCP&C…who pretty much invented the modern PSU. 😉
    That PSU is only costing me $35. But, it would easily run a Q2Q plus a 460 if I could afford em.

    Oh, BTW, my C2D cost me $50 on craigslist….FTW! 😉

    Providing you don’t overclock the CPU or GPU and don’t have too much other stuff, yea, it should easily run.
    Put any overclocking or have several other components in your system and it won’t be finding things so easy.
    You only have a MAX of 34amps on the 12v rail. That’s 408W.
    A PSU that cheap isn’t likely to run to its specs too well, I respect PCP&C, but like all manufacturers, to reach a low price level, low price components are required.

    #64052

    PeanutsRevenge
    Participant

    Then again, it seems my arguementative side ran away from me again.

    Just looked @ my old PSU, a Hiper 4M580. That only had 38amps over 2x12V rails and ran my C2D and dual 9800GTs for a fair while. Although it did start dying, not sure if it’s sorted as now running a bog standard desktop POS.

    So ignore my previous post, I was being a tard again.

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